My Brand New CTC-7!

[SwizzyMan]

Originally Posted by DaveWM

disconnect only C104B the Square, connect the disconnected wire to a pos of a 50uf cap neg to ground.

I'd connect the ground to the ground pin on the filter cap? Please bear with my pure stupidity here please.

[DaveWM]

the can is a multi section cap with a common ground. IF the can connected to the chassis then you would connect the neg lead of the 50u cap to ANY place on the chassis. IF the can was not grounded then you would connect the neg lead to the can itself. In this case IF you are looking at the right can (C104) and the right section (B) then you would disconnect any thing connected to the "B" section and and then connect those wires resistors what ever you just disconnected to a pos lead of a 50uf and the neg lead of said 50uf to what ever the can was connected to, IF you are on the right can it would be the chassis.

maybe you should take a hi res pic of what you are doing.

[DaveWM]

this is all just a temp thing to see if that can is bad (or that section anyway).

just tack it on and make sure nothing shorts out, go a quick power us and see if the 270v come back.

If it does then that section is bad, and the whole can should be restuffed.

all of this would not be needed if

you had the proper cap tester OR

just went ahead and restuffed. I prefer to test but if you dont have the correct equipment your options are limited.

[SwizzyMan]

If I were to restuff it could I use a 56 uf instead of 50?

[DaveWM]

typical

82 for 80
56 for 50
33 for 30
27 for 20


remember the orig caps were +100/-50 tolerance.

dont for get to get the 4uf (use a 4.7) in on the video pcb.

[tvcollector]

I used mainly used a 47 to replace a 50, seems a bit closer to the value, but I don't know, is 56 better?

[DaveWM]

47 is fine for a 50. big tolerances on those.

[SwizzyMan]

how about 150 for a 160? Other question is how am I going to stack all of these caps together and still have enough length to fit all the leads?

[DaveWM]

your getting ahead, did you try the 50uf tacked in to see if the can was the problem?

[SwizzyMan]

Originally Posted by DaveWM

your getting ahead, did you try the 50uf tacked in to see if the can was the problem?

Need to order that sorry will report back when I get it in.

[SwizzyMan]

Originally Posted by DaveWM

your getting ahead, did you try the 50uf tacked in to see if the can was the problem?

Actually Dave, that can is now getting hot. should I still try the 50uf?

[DaveWM]

if its getting hot the test is moot, its bad.

getting the right caps for stuffing is the key.

Go to mouser, get the tall skinny caps, the dimensions are listed, learn to use the search tools.

with the skinny caps I have NEVER had to stack anything, they fit flush to the base, even 4 part caps. You do need to take the time to find the correct skinny caps. Also get the 105c rated caps, I generally only get nichicons.

They are not expensive, if they are you are not searching right, you want to stay away from odd ball stuff. Also sometimes high values or voltages can actually be cheaper. you just need to look and shop. Only get radial leads, much cheaper than axial leads. The only exception is when the axial is really needed to best fit on a PCB. In that case I pop extra for the correct fit.

[DaveWM]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BcHwooOqGRE

Typical can cap with skinny caps mounted flush.

In this case I removed the old can. Generally I do the same process with out removing the can, just cut off leaving the base attached to the chassis.
The video shows a removed, this more clearly shows how the skinny caps fit.

[SwizzyMan]

Ok Will go ahead and restuff all of them? Was able to pick up an eico 950B cap tester.

[SwizzyMan]

Ok, about to order the caps to replace the filter caps with. For one value on the cans it says 160uf but I can use 150uf right?