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#17
03-06-2007, 08:06 AM
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Bryan -
Looks good. Congratulations on getting it up and running! That chassis is indeed the same one in my 1965 console. Fortunately I haven't had any problems with it (yet) other than corroded tube sockets. Still need to replace the electrolytics one day though. As far as measuring cathode current - on my 1968 Admiral, there is a RCA jack installed in one of the holes in the chassis next to the HO tube, with the cathode connected to the center pin. A shorting plug is placed in there during normal operation, and to measure the cathode current, I use a RCA->BNC adaptor out through a cable to a DMM. This plug would also be a good place to plug in a cathode fuse for the HO tube. I have thought about installing one on the 1965 as it looks like there are some holes available. Jim 
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#18
03-06-2007, 08:39 AM
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Oooh, nice job, Bryan!
Do you make housecalls?  veg
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#19
03-06-2007, 11:41 AM
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Andy, thanks for the great pointers. I will put these to work.
Jim, that RCA jack sounds like a clever idea. That would have been very easy for any manufacturer to install. Veg, it only looks easy!
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Bryan
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#20
03-06-2007, 12:19 PM
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I have put a fuse clip (exposed terminals) into the HO cathode circuit on these type sets. You can put in a 6.3 volt fuse lamp and adjust the effeciency coil for minimum lamp brightness for minimum cathode current, then replace the lamp with a 300 ma fuse for fuse protection.
The later RCA's such as CTC-39's did have a disconnectable jumper lug to easily measure cathode current.
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