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#17
10-26-2004, 01:38 PM
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The chassis looks pretty good. Like mentioned in prior post It would be
a good idea to replace all of the caps. Theres not that many there anyway. Follow up by checking the resistors with your ohmeter while your at it. Then it would be a good idea to go through and have the tubes checked. Then you can go through and clean the switches and controls. Do not attempt to align or make any adjustments untill all of these areas have been addressed. Good Luck. 
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#18
10-26-2004, 01:39 PM
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Quote:
An AK member in the same county as i'm in... and only 20 minutes away. Looks like your set uses loctal tubes, and I have some of the common ones, so we should be good there. Need to take a count on capacitors. The fat yellow one and orange one... need the values on those and can get replacements at Ralph's Electronics (near MLK & Calder). They will also have the little caps.
__________________
Charlie Trahan He who dies with the most toys still dies.
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#19
10-26-2004, 01:46 PM
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Here is a link to check out:
http://www.nostalgiaair.org/Resources/330/M0013330.htm Here you can download schematics which also include a dial stringing diagram. Without it, it can be hard to tell how the string was supposed to go. You can buy regular dial string via mailorder. You could probably make do with kite string. Probably uses a small spring or two where it connects to the tuner, they may still be there? As for the pointer, someone may have one they can offer, or you could make up something with some ingenuity. The big red and orange capacitors underneath are your mortal enemy! They gotta go!
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Bryan
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#20
10-26-2004, 03:58 PM
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Be VERY,VERY careful if you try to clean the dial glass-Personal very painful experience has shown lotsa times those little numbers are water-or windex-soluble.And yes, you can replace 'em w/transfer letters, but they about always come out looking like shite. Also, the glass they use on those things is invariably a special extra thin & brittle type that lays in wait for you so it can break in yr hand, causing a nasty cut, & effectively ruining a good restoration. Sometimes, they'll break if you look at 'em cross-eyed...<grin>-Sandy G.
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#21
10-27-2004, 09:24 AM
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Also it is a good idea to install a fuse in the hot lead of the power line...1 amp ought to do. You can get an in-line fuse holder and put it under the chassis and it will not affect the looks of it one bit. And, I always disconnect that noise suppression cap on the powerline...if it shorts you will either end up with a "hot" chassis or a short across the powerline. Never had any ill effects from just disconnecting that thing altogether.
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#23
10-31-2004, 05:06 PM
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Kite string = no good. Get some dial cord, Antique Electronic Supply or other distributor. In a real pinch, I've used pull cord from a ceramic light fixture for cord. And you need a couple springs, extension springs, may find them at the home center.
No one yet mentioned-- There's no antenna on that chassis--need a few feet of wire to the antenna screw for any reception. In order for the chassis to tune, the 6th push button has to be pushed, and the contacts behind it need to be clean. Better pick up some De-Oxit. Copperman
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#24
11-02-2004, 07:40 AM
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I already removed some of the caps I was going to pick some new ones up today but some of the streets are flooded
 even without antenna I would have atleast got noise static something right? Should I go ahead and buy some caps when I get the chance? a few of em don't look so good and one if it's even a cap looks like @#&% er multi colored puty it's disfigured badly but since it looks like at one time it was wax I'm thinking it's a cap
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#25
11-02-2004, 07:48 AM
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Yikes! Yeah, Play-Doh wasn't invented then...handle it with care.
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#26
03-01-2005, 08:17 AM
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Update the philco works! Thanks to Charlie
and a friend of his that donated a tube. btw those guys have some cool radios and tv's,that classic duster was neat too. I'm gonna have to go play with this philco,AM and short wave are a bit new to me. Thx everyone for your help.
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#27
03-01-2005, 09:27 AM
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If you REALLY wanna make that old guy sing, run a length of wire out a window over to the nearest tree, trying to keep the wire as high as possible. 20' length is good, 40-60' even better. Just remember to unplug it during Thunderstorm season !!-Sandy G.
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Benevolent Despot
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#28
03-01-2005, 11:34 AM
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Quote:
Who are you referring to as old guy???    Actually, Donny's Philco was extremely impressive with it's reception! It has a pretty hefty shortwave antenna inside considering the size of the set. It was pulling in stations all over the place! I was really surprised! The electronic presets work pretty good too. If he were to hook up that outside wire, he'd probably be able to monitor those two robots' progress we have on Mars!!!   Donny, glad it all worked out. Watch out for those "numbers" stations on shortwave... they're pretty creepy at night! 
__________________
Charlie Trahan He who dies with the most toys still dies.
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#29
03-01-2005, 12:07 PM
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BTW... All we had to do to this set was a re-cap (maybe 10 total including lytics), replace a few nearly nude wires, and replace a weak 7J7 det/osc tube.
No... I did not say nearly nude wives... put your glasses on!
__________________
Charlie Trahan He who dies with the most toys still dies.
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