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  #24  
Old 01-21-2011, 11:03 PM
radiotvnut's Avatar
radiotvnut radiotvnut is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Meridian, MS
Posts: 6,025
Well, I think I'm getting close.

The terminal strips came in today and I simply disconnected the old filter cans and wired individual sections behind the chassis.

I disconnected the two selenium rectifiers; but, left them physically mounted to the chassis. I soldered the terminal strips for the new rectifiers, using the center mounting lug of the terminal strip, to one of the now disconnected terminals of the selenium rectifiers. At this point, I have not added a series dropping resistor to the output of the voltage doubler. Once I'm done with everything else, I'll power up the chassis so that I can check the output voltage against the schematic. Then, I'll add whatever value resistor is needed to bring down the voltage to the schematic value.

To remove the audio board, it was necessary to unbolt a portion of the chassis. After that, I was able to desolder the PC board from the metal piece that was unscrewed from the chassis. The caps have been replaced on that board and all that is left to do is re-install the board.

There was one cap, between the plate and screen grid of the audio output tube, that I forgot to order (.0033uf, 1KV). I don't know why they would use a 1KV cap in such an application and since all I had on hand were 630V caps, that's what I used. Had it been in a deflection circuit, I would have waited to get a 1KV cap. I suppose I could wire two .0068uf, 630V caps in series to give me the correct working voltage.

Soon, I'll post pictures so that you can see my sloppy repair work (although not as sloppy as what the previous guy did).

Last edited by radiotvnut; 01-21-2011 at 11:07 PM.
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