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#23
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It's been a few days since I last played with this. Last night, I pretty much finished up (or at least as far as I'm going to take it at this point).
The tuner from the CTC11 is doing okay... but like Phil described his, this one, too, is kinda funky. I found that the best picture response shows up when I get the channel selector between channels 3 & 4. It really is kinda sloppy. I can't change the channel and come back without having to doing a major re-adjust of the fine tuner. But, until I can do something with the original tuner, this will have to do. The picture is a little grainy... not too bad. Tried repacing the nuvistor... no change. HV is set on 23KV. Tried to adjust the current in the horz section... was reading about 210ma. When I tried adjusting the coil to bring it down a bit, I found it was frozen in place and wouldn't budge. Damn! Typical. After trying to work it loose for some time, I finally gave up in fear or breaking the damn thing. I ran the set for some time and monitored the current. Stayed solid at 210. About an hour later, I felt the flyback and found it to only be slightly warm... about what you'd expect from it operating. I guess it will be okay... probably been that way for years. Does anyone have any tricks for loosening frozen coils without breaking them? I'd still like to get that current down just a little if possible. I never touched the convergence board. I felt it was acceptable as is. There are a couple of areas that look a tad off, but not so much that it bothered me. Perhaps later, I will touch up convergence if I go back in to swap out the tuner for the original. Something I found interesting... the place where the "stereo speaker" input is located... this chassis instead has a red screen control there. My other CTC9 actually has the speaker input. The back of the cabinet labels that spot as stereo speaker, and it lead me to think someone removed that input jack and stuck that red screen control there. However, when you look at it from the inside, it does appear to look like a factory job and not an add-on from some shop. Another question for thought... the red background control... why even have it??? In the set-up instructions, it clearly states to turn it fully counter-clockwise and leave it there... do not adjust. Even at the end of the instructions, it again says to leave it alone. Why have it if it's not to be adjusted? If i remember correctly, the later chassis did not have a red background control. As mentioned earlier, the CRT was replaced during the mid-late 60's. I noticed that the label has an "HR" prefix on the 21FBP. I wonder what the HR stands for? I don't think I've seen the HR before on any others. High resolution??? Yeah, I kinda doubt that.
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Charlie Trahan He who dies with the most toys still dies. |
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