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#16
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I have a 1010 "in a basket" now too....Seemed every time I touched something to figure out it's vertical problem, I would break something else....until it just wouldn't come on at all. I found the most fragile mechanical point is that ribbon between the two boards. It's not flexible enough to be messed with too much, and I kept breaking some connection at one side of it or the other all the time.
I had that 1010 since new in Hong Kong.....so it actually ran QUITE well until around two years ago when it first came on with just the horizontal line. That was just some touching up of some lousy looking solder points. About six months ago....I noticed it had a raster and nothing else. I got WAY too far into it without any luck...and then had trouble with the ribbon connections that caused me to keep having to touch them up as I kept moving the set around. As it sits NOW "in a basket"....I could probly power it up if I jumpered all those ribbon connections....but it will still have no tuner whatsoever, so it sits....looking like that picture you posted up there.
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My current "holy grail" is trying to get enough parts together to get a Singer TV6U going. Been kicking my ass for nearly a year now :-P Last edited by AiboPet; 08-28-2012 at 08:47 AM. |
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#17
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I have a TR-1010 that looks like that too! I cleaned it up pretty good, and did a complete recap on the main power board - then the ribbon tore in half. The corrosive capacitor electrolyte does do a lot of damage to the traces and solder joints. I only paid $10 for it back in 2007 - so not upset about it. I just bought another unit for $20 in much better physical condition, but also not working - not worth the trouble to try and repair this 1 - it will be a display model for my collection.
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#18
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Quote:
jr |
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