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#31
12-03-2012, 10:55 PM
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David, I noticed yours has .05 uF caps for Vertical deflection plate coupling. The Sams parts list (and photo) calls for .03. Do they look like they are replacements, or do they look undisturbed and original?
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#32
12-03-2012, 11:08 PM
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Quote:
In this case, since it's just text in what looks like a normal Font, it may be easier to create a new label using Word or Photoshop instead of trying to doctor the Photo. The dark stains make it really hard to clean up.
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#33
12-03-2012, 11:13 PM
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Mine had one .03 and one .005, the .005 was a replacement and way off on value, I don't know how well it would have worked?. 03@6000 is not an easy value to find but I picked up a few on eBay so those are covered. My question is about the 500Pf (.0005Mf) Horizontal caps. .0005@6000 is also not all that easy to find but I do have some .001's, or double the value. Does anyone think those would be OK to use in the Horizontal circuit? What would it affect, the width of the picture?
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#34
12-03-2012, 11:58 PM
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I used 0.001s in my 506 and it works just fine
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#35
12-04-2012, 01:03 AM
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Just noticed the serial number on Davids set, 124900 something, mine is 241926, about 117,000 apart! Either they made a gazillion of these sets or they shared the serial numbers with other products.
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#36
12-04-2012, 08:52 AM
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I looked at it carefully - the solder joints looked clean and of similar sheen to the other joints. The caps have clamps, as you see, but they are not actually bolted to the chassis. Best I can tell is that they look original, and are the correct value from the older Rider sheet, despite this being a miniature-tube IF.
I actually gutted my 0.05 caps to take a set of caps to make that value. Quote:
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#37
12-04-2012, 08:59 AM
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Eric, it seems you are going to finish way ahead of me. I can't spare the time like I used to with two jobs and travel. Guess I'll just have to watch you!
For the folks with the loose tube bases - how did you get adhesive down into the base? I was thinking of filing a small hole in the nub and pulling a vacuum to get it in. But what say you?
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#38
12-04-2012, 01:07 PM
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I just shoot or squish glue into the space between the base and neck, wiping off the excess.
Lately, I have been using black RTV, since I have an open tube and like to use stuff up. It seems to hold well, and if you ever wanted to get a base back off for some reason, you'd have better luck with that than with super glue. I have learned over the years to pull tubes out by their bases, not their envelopes, so I don't think you need to use epoxy or super glue. Phil Nelson
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#39
12-04-2012, 06:53 PM
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It has been a long time since I recapped my Hali 7", but I recall wondering about those .05/6KV (.03/6KV?) vertical coupling. I recall looking at the other 7" set designs, most all of which used .005/6KV coupling caps, and came to the conclusion that .005/6KV should work just fine..... and they did. I think Hallicrafters just got a good deal on .05/6KV caps and used them. :-)
__________________
John Folsom
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#40
12-04-2012, 11:21 PM
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 As for the tube bases I use Phil's method, squirt some Silicone in around the edges and call it a day. Trying to grind a hole in the end is way too risky, you might break of the evacuation nipple. Are you talking about the CRT in this case? For those who don't know, the CRT in the Hallicrafters is held in place only by the front mask and the base of the CRT, I think Silicone is fine for the job in this case.
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