![]() |
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
|
1958 GE Portable 17P1329
I won this set on ebay and it was delivered to me last week, and I'm just now getting around to posting the pictures here. It is a 1958 model portable set that came with the original box. I forgot to take a picture of the box, so I posted the seller's photo with it. All the tubes look like they have 1957 date codes, so I think it was made in '57.
I called the seller and he said it looked like it was barely used. Only some scuffs and paint loss on the outside. He said it was displayed for a while and he thinks the scuffs were just from the handling. When I got it and opened it up, it looks almost brand new. Very little dust inside, no wear or heat marks, all stickers in place, etc. I was really happy. It does work, but the picture is short at the bottom. Probably the electrolytics. Since it's untouched inside, I kinda hate to replace stuff. Does anybody think I can put it on a variac and try to reform the caps? ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() There is a sticker on the CRT that says "Tube Return Registration" and has the model number stamped on it and something written in that I can't make out. Has anybody seen this before or know what it means?
Last edited by egrand; 09-19-2013 at 07:24 PM. |
|
#2
|
||||
|
||||
|
That's a handsome little set! Nice find!
I would put in new lytics for reliability. Since it sounds like you're interested in keeping it looking original, you could always restuff the old cans. It's a pain in the ass, but there's some good instructional videos around to guide you along if need be. Many would point out that you should replace those rectifiers with modern ones for safety reasons.
__________________
Charlie Trahan He who dies with the most toys still dies. |
|
#3
|
||||
|
||||
|
Whoa Nellie, that thing is nice! I'd be freakin' on whether to change anything. But, sometimes it has to be done.
__________________
"I know it's true, oh so true, 'cause I saw it on TV"—John Fogerty |
|
#4
|
||||
|
||||
|
You might try running it for a while. Sometimes the electrolytics will reform themselves.
|
|
#5
|
|||
|
|||
|
Thanks! The seller said it was on display at an antique store for several years and that people touching it and bumping it probably caused the paint wear on the outside. I haven't turned it on since I took the pictures.
I've been trying to decide what to do with it. I know it needs the caps replaced/restuffed and bypass the rectifiers. I'm sure that if I did, it would work beautifully for a good many years. Yet, I'm still torn. Maybe this is sacrilege here, but I'm really leaning toward not doing a darn thing to it. My reasoning is this: it's almost a piece of art, all original, still shiny inside, colorful wiring, not a speck of dirt or heat marks on the components. It probably looks like it did the day it left the factory, with the exception that some cadmium plated things turned yellow and there's some finger prints on the flyback cover. If I change anything, no matter how careful I am, it won't be original any more. I certainly don't need another working tv for any practical reason. I really like these 50's portables and will someday have more of them that I'll restore. If nothing else, I figure keeping this original gives me a reference set that I can use for comparing. Sort of like having a 3-D Sams. Plus, someday somebody else can have the same excitement I had finding an all original tv from the 50's. Well, that's my reasoning. Maybe I'm crazy. Maybe TV's are meant to be watched and not looked at. Maybe I'll change my mind someday. Who knows! |
| Audiokarma |
|
#6
|
|||
|
|||
|
Hello real nice set if I were you I would replace the capacitors anyway just for safty sake that is a real nifty looking tv no sense in screwing it up by letting the caps reform themselves...Timothy
|
|
#7
|
|||
|
|||
|
Its prob transformerless so not like to do much damage even if the caps shorted, other than the Se rectifiers smoking up. If it was mine I would put a varistor and conservative fuse in line with the plug. Maybe even just make a little box with an outlet for just this. the thermistor softens the start so the fuse can be made to be just over the max current (no inrush). If it starts blowing fuses alot then you can start to worry about cap and Se replacement.
On something this pristine there is logic to leaving it completely original. oh and you can prob fix the scan by just adjusting the height and lin pots. If you really wanted to make it a daily driver then I would recommend going all Bob Anderson on it and restuffing caps (papers too) to keep it in the orig condition, but even then I would hold off on that until I did the thermistor/fuse thing. I have had sets that are completely original (my porta colors) that are completely orig and run fine. One last thing, I would be more concerned about any bumble bees (and wax if there are any). The issue there is leakage that "may" cause issues. I would recommend replacing the caps in the grid circuits of the vert and horz outs IF they are bumble bees. If they are disc then you should be good to go. Last edited by DaveWM; 10-20-2013 at 10:42 PM. |
|
#8
|
||||
|
||||
|
I think I'd leave it alone. It will only be original once.
|
|
#9
|
|||
|
|||
|
If you notice, the GE 110 degree CRT's used an ion trap. It was the only 110 degree Crt's to use them.
GE had the nerve to use that chassis in a 21" console. Talk about entry level. The next year, they came out with the "Designer" line. A lot better product.
|
![]() |
|
|