My Brand New CTC-7! - Page 15 - Videokarma.org TV - Video

Zenith26kc20 · #**211** 07-20-2015, 12:39 PM

Look in the IF area for a capacitor you may have missed. The CTC9 has a small bumblebee that is only visible when the cover of the IF is removed. It'll cause sync troubles usually after warm up.

SwizzyMan · #**212** 07-20-2015, 12:42 PM

Yes flops on both sides and both on the signal generator and tv programming I cant even turn the knob a quarter turn without losing horizontal sync. I do apologize for any frustration I may be causing you Dave I am lucky that you are helping me out so much with this.

DaveWM · #**213** 07-20-2015, 12:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zenith26kc20

Look in the IF area for a capacitor you may have missed. The CTC9 has a small bumblebee that is only visible when the cover of the IF is removed. It'll cause sync troubles usually after warm up.

good catch, an easy one to miss under the IF cover.

ALL bumble bees must be replaced. they are worse than wax paper caps.

SwizzyMan · #**214** 07-20-2015, 12:59 PM

I did not see that one when I first took the cover off. Maybe it was replaced or maybe i missed it?

SwizzyMan · #**215** 07-20-2015, 01:19 PM

Ok the bumblebee has been replaced with an elmenco cap. Are those prone to failure? should I replace it?

DaveWM · #**216** 07-20-2015, 01:32 PM

http://videokarma.org/attachment.php...9&d=1363626356

white thin cap right in the center

DaveWM · #**217** 07-20-2015, 01:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SwizzyMan

Ok the bumblebee has been replaced with an elmenco cap. Are those prone to failure? should I replace it?

you have that new cap tester take it out and test it.

and yes white tube ceramic elmencos have been know to be problems, not like wax or bumblebee but enough that they should be suspected.

SwizzyMan · #**218** 07-20-2015, 01:43 PM

How exactly did you get the shield off the back of the IF board? My soldering iron is not melting the solder joints holding it in.

DaveWM · #**219** 07-20-2015, 01:45 PM

look at the pic its not the bottom

SwizzyMan · #**220** 07-20-2015, 01:47 PM

There is a metal shield on the trace side of the pcb blocking me from getting to the pcb traces so i can take out the cap.

DaveWM · #**221** 07-20-2015, 01:49 PM

solder iron, heat stake, lift cover. if solder iron not hot enough you need a bigger solder iron or clip from top and j hook in new.

SwizzyMan · #**222** 07-20-2015, 02:01 PM

OK it is in. Anything else I should do before I shove it back in?

SwizzyMan · #**223** 07-20-2015, 02:06 PM

Old cap was open at 400v. Hopefully the new one will solve my problem.

DaveWM · #**224** 07-20-2015, 02:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SwizzyMan

Old cap was open at 400v. Hopefully the new one will solve my problem.

Open? it should be open (eye should completely open). Shorted or leaky at rated voltage is bad. Not sure how your eye tube tester works

did you check the value as well?

try testing the new one, do a video of the test of the old and the new.

SwizzyMan · #**225** 07-20-2015, 02:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DaveWM

Open? it should be open (eye should completely open). Shorted or leaky at rated voltage is bad. Not sure how your eye tube tester works

did you check the value as well?

try testing the new one, do a video of the test of the old and the new.

Open as in completely dead. On my tester when the eye closes and stays closed that indicates excessive leakage. The eye stayed closed at 400v for the old one. The new one tests no leakage at 400v with the eye staying open.