a real challange?

[Yamamaya42]

prob a dumb question,
https://imgur.com/1etZiRp

Just how critical is replacing this with an exactly a .05 uf cap?

What I mean is, I don't have any at the moment, but I do have a set of film caps in which are 15 .047 (400v) caps, close enough? or should I hold off till i get true .05 uf caps? will it matter that much?

[old_tv_nut]

Unless the .05 has a 5% or tighter tolerance specified, .047 is the standard value that replaces it.

[dtvmcdonald]

That cap is non-critical, its impedance is much less than the resistor it is across.

The 0.1 next to it, however, might matter ... but on the other hand, everybody
stocks 0.1 uF caps.

[Yamamaya42]

I'm starting to see some wild discrepancies between the SAMS info and the Riders info and what is in the set for real

example, C100, .05 uf, SAMS says 600v Riders says 1000v, and in the set, a 1200v cap
https://imgur.com/1ngykgT

this is gonna be fun!

[Kevin Kuehn]

C100(Sams reference) along with C99 are damper filter caps that have
boost voltage across them on either side of the Horz linearity coil. Caps in that location take a beating, so it's no surprise they put a higher value there. And when in doubt it never hurts to use a larger voltage rated cap.

[Kevin Kuehn]

I just checked the RCA 630TS service manual and they list 1000v caps on both sides of the Horz linearity coil.

[MadMan]

There's probably a discrepancy between what the manufacturer said they used, and what they actually used. Or design revisions, perhaps. Could also be down to parts availability at the time of manufacture.

[Electronic M]

Anything 1000V or higher ought to work...If you didn't buy anything like that and need to order it may as well grab a 1200 or 1600V part for headroom.

The 0.05 and ~0.033uF 1000V damper caps are one of those parts that after doing a few 630 based sets (and others that use FLY1 like some Admirals and DuMonts) you can practically look at the set in it's cabinet and start the parts list with those odd duck parts.

[Yamamaya42]

Originally Posted by Electronic M

Anything 1000V or higher ought to work...If you didn't buy anything like that and need to order it may as well grab a 1200 or 1600V part for headroom.

The 0.05 and ~0.033uF 1000V damper caps are one of those parts that after doing a few 630 based sets (and others that use FLY1 like some Admirals and DuMonts) you can practically look at the set in it's cabinet and start the parts list with those odd duck parts.

I don't have any at that voltage range right now...

when I got this film cap set, I was looking at the parts list on the SAMS at the time, and picked it cause it has a bunch that it used ( 15 each value ranging 400v & 600v), it seemed to have about 70%-80% of what was needed, but of course , I'm now starting to find out I'll be needing caps with v ranges 2 times what I have in some places, I will still be able to use most in the set however.

[Electronic M]

Originally Posted by Yamamaya42

I don't have any at that voltage range right now...

when I got this film cap set, I was looking at the parts list on the SAMS at the time, and picked it cause it has a bunch that it used ( 15 each value ranging 400v & 600v), it seemed to have about 70%-80% of what was needed, but of course , I'm now starting to find out I'll be needing caps with v ranges 2 times what I have in some places, I will still be able to use most in the set however.

One goofy thing you could do if you have extra .1 600V caps is put 2 in series to make a .05 1200V....I did that a couple of times during my broke college student days and it worked out fine. Identical capacitors in series the capacitance divides by the number of caps and the voltage adds. If the caps have different capacitance and or voltage the math gets messy fast...
Ordering the correct part scores you more points with the next owner of the set though.

[Yamamaya42]

I know that It's because caps have progressed a lot in the last 50+ years or so, but still :p

It just seems weird replacing such a big paper cap with a little film one!

https://imgur.com/Fbtwdkf
https://imgur.com/pUZgYbj

[Electronic M]

Originally Posted by Yamamaya42

I know that It's because caps have progressed a lot in the last 50+ years or so, but still :p

It just seems weird replacing such a big paper cap with a little film one!

https://imgur.com/Fbtwdkf
https://imgur.com/pUZgYbj

I had the same impression when I got into the hobby, only back then I was using those yellow caps that some people hate the look of....the yellow ones are the same roll of foil and insulator construction as the original so it really drives home the improvement switching from a machine wax, paper, cardboard and lead foil fruit rollup to a part incorporating modern materials and manufacturing technique.

Part of the reason I don't worry much about outside foil is many original caps had to be routed far enough off from the terminal points such that the leads made a nice loop to pick up noise....when the body of the cap and the leads can be routed such that there is only 50-10% of the metal surface to pickup noise there's a fair chance it will pick up less noise than the original did no matter how you connect its foil....If you have ever listened to shortwave or ham radio you learn antenna size matters.

[MadMan]

lol that's nothing. I have some caps that are literally 1/4 inch wide.

[Yamamaya42]

does all this wax that i see dripping off these old paper caps bleed out of them?

[Kevin Kuehn]

Pretty sure they were originally sealed in wax in an attempt to keep out moisture. Possibly vacuum impregnated too. Although I'll have to admit I wasn't around early enough to remember seeing those in NOS form.