I picked up a fully loaded Zenith Chancellor roundy combo

[old_tv_nut]

Zenith's gated beam tubes and IC color demods were both ultralinear compared to the pentodes or other tubes used by other makers. Differences in greens and other colors between gated-beam and IC Zeniths was likely due to differences in phosphors over the years combined with changes to the demod gains and angles to compensate. The all-sulfide CRTs in particular used a zinc sulfide green with cadmium added to make it yellower and brighter, resulting in visibly desaturated true greens and cyans. Also, because the white point was already moved towards cyan to take some load off the red gun, cyans looked grayish by comparison. This was reduced to a degree when rare earth red was introduced and cadmium was removed from all formulations for environmental reasons. This gave pretty much a standard phosphor set for years to come, but manufacturers differed in the white point they set and the compensating adjustments in the color demods.

In the end, basically the same phosphor set was selected as the standard for PAL, HDTV and still photos (sRGB), but the compensation was moved to the camera or computer instead of the receiver/monitor.

[Electronic M]

So I've had some time to pick at this. I bought this set 2 days before I was supposed to leave on a 2 week vacation so the variac job was stolen time.

Since getting back I confirmed that the H Lin coil is intact and the slug moves freely.


Also looking closer at the chassis I've found some interesting things. Someone wired the outlet half of an extension cord into the chassis (I presume to make the remote control something else).


The convergence yoke has one of the bridges between the clover petals cracked and a metal band wrapped around the whole clover. I've never seen one of these clovers intact and installed so I don't know if this is factory or an aftermarket repair.


Some of the work on the TV was done by the type of neanderthals who remove half the screws on a cover then bend it open like a can of sardines.



The good part is it appears the stereo hasn't been worked on. Every unshielded tube is original Zenith with 48-51 week of 1962 date codes. All the audio tubes worth anything are good. The 6FQ7s aren't super strong but the rest are including the made in Holland 6BQ5s (which I believe are rebadged Philips).

Thanks to Dave I have the info on the KV-24 reverb I now know what reverb it should have had. While on vacation I was excited because I remembered I had a chassis that I got years ago with some FM MPX decoders that wasn't one, and a spring unit. I couldn't find the spring unit and the reverb driver chassis I have is I believe for an older Zenith...the circuit looks the same but it has its own power supply (which the one for the Chancellor lacks) and different plugs.

[Electronic M]

Also I found a CTC16 with a bad flyback that's generously donated it's CRT to the Zenith. I fixed the cataract yesterday.

[AlanInSitges]

I love that you have so many cool sets that you can just "find" a 16 chassis laying around to take parts out of! That set is quite a looker too.

[Electronic M]

Originally Posted by AlanInSitges

I love that you have so many cool sets that you can just "find" a 16 chassis laying around to take parts out of! That set is quite a looker too.

Thanks, though I wish I kept enough mediocre sets to just scrounge parts for ones I like. I picked up the CTC16 on what was a whole day drive to south of Minneapolis and back to pick up my Capeheart early color.

There's actually someone interested in the CTC16 who may end up putting a CRT and flyback into it. If I had a flyback and more room (or I didn't already have another 16 I like better) I'd try to fix it and keep it.

[DavGoodlin]

I think that RCA 16 is a real peach, never seen that control layout before. I have no flyback for it, so good its found a home.

The CRT is going to make that Zenith really a looker, like any decent 21". Is the CRT a Colorama rebuild or Hi-Lite (OEM-new)?

As far as your reverb spring, you're getting close. Those seem universal and ones in my Motorola's were made by Gibbs manufacturing in Janesville, Wisconsin. Cannot comment who made the reverb tanks RCA or Zenith used because I've never seen one.

[Electronic M]

So I hauled the whole thing into the basement over the last 2 days. I pulled everything but the speakers, TV face bezels and wiring harness to make it lighter.

I learned the reason why the audio is K line (1962) and the TV is M line (1964)...It's a frankenset! Inside the changer side speaker box I found a K line tube chart with a piece of wood sitting loose on it...That wood had an M line TV tube chart on one side and blond photofinish on the other. Also the power switch wiring off the remote (and presumably to the chassis) is someone's back job. So someone killed a 25MC43 to make this set have a newer chassis.

Most of the rest of the installation is fairly tidy. I should try and figure out if the remote chassis and bezels are original or from the M line donor. I suspect it is a mishmash.

Over the next few days I want to get the TV good enough to do a shadow mask check on the CRT I gathered for it and start on a proper restoration of the electronics.

[Electronic M]

Last night I got the TV to live. Changed all the bumblebee caps, the focus rect, variaced, wiggled tubes and adjusted user controls and got this... Surprisingly the color is good despite the center coax lead to the tint control being snapped off the pot.



The speaker leads to the horn tweeter were loose and touching the changer before I brought it down which could explain the weak channel. So the audio might be good as is (still going to recap it).

I think the CRT bezel is the original K line, the control panel from the M line, ,and the remote chassis from the K line. The chassis supports degauss, but there's no coil. The power button looks like it's wiring goes with the chassis but had a molex for the remote hacked in.

Anybody got a picture of the M line Zenith degaussing coils?
I'd like to add degaussing but I'm not sure what route to take.

[Electronic M]

So the CTC16 CRT only lasted about an hour in opperation (split between 2 days ago and today) before it got so gassy that HV dropped off and the neck lit up like a neon tube.
Story of my life.

This is the 4th gassy picture tube I've had and all 4 of them have the copper evacuation nipple...I think those copper evacuation nipples have a higher failure rate (failing leaky) than glass ones.

[old_tv_nut]

Bummer.

[reeferman]

Impressive progress, for sure.

A broken cloverleaf was so common in the 60's that every time I worked on a Zenith I replaced it, need it or not. The shop always had a stack of them readily available.

Two failure components are K1 (vertical integrator) pin 11 circuit and K2 (vertical feedback) pin 9 in the 6BA11 circuit. They look like a 3 legged disc cap. Each has a different color code, but I forget the colors and which is which. One of them was a sure bet to fail (I’ve forgotten which one). When it does the vertical pulls up from the bottom and acts real goofy. Like the cloverleaf, replacement of these two items was automatic, need it or not.

You should replace these if at all possible and save some grief down the line. I’m sure you can get some advice here on fabricating replacements, if necessary.

The main thing is to enjoy your project.

[Electronic M]

Thanks for the advice.

The clover is broken on one of the joints between leafs. Someone decades ago fixed it by wrapping an aluminum band and with a spring joining the ends around the clover. Not sure how I feel about it yet or if anyone has a replacement.

I'm busy making a good CRT for it presently. I took a gamble on a $10 badly cataracted 21FJP with a badly damaged/badly repaired bakelite base that tested NOS on the 2 guns that had connection.
Someone whacked the base pretty hard and busted most of it's bakelite skirt....then pressed it down crooked and HOT GLUED it such that the remaining part of the skirt stuck out enough to block removing or installing the neck deflection hardware. At least the glue was easy to clean just power up the heater and let it melt the hot glue.
I got the safety glass off first (never done an RCA cataract removal indoors with heat lamp and gun before today) successfully, then removed the old base in a way that saved the leads by strategically destroying what was left of the broken base. I harvested a new base, and am dissolving the old factory base glue on the tube with ammonia cleaner (it's really effective on that stuff).
Once enough of the the old glue is gone I'm going to install the new base with high temp sensor safe silicone and reattach the safety glass.

If I can get good purity and static convergence (which is what I resurrected the chassis to check on the last CRT) then I'll start seriously fixing the TV.

[DavGoodlin]

Good luck on the base replacement. Selective demolition of the old base allows pins to be heated and removed one by one. Moving those leads is to be avoided, once carefully straightened.

I have done one by soldering extensions onto all 12 leads, that allows them to be guided into the CRT base's pins a whole lot easier. Again with less moving of leads, better visibility to guide them in.

Bob Anderson is an expert on such materials and recommended the silicone windshield repair goo. It is not hard when it sets, but allows very little movement.

[Electronic M]

Originally Posted by DavGoodlin

Good luck on the base replacement. Selective demolition of the old base allows pins to be heated and removed one by one. Moving those leads is to be avoided, once carefully straightened.

I have done one by soldering extensions onto all 12 leads, that allows them to be guided into the CRT base's pins a whole lot easier. Again with less moving of leads, better visibility to guide them in.

Bob Anderson is an expert on such materials and recommended the silicone windshield repair goo. It is not hard when it sets, but allows very little movement.

Yup. I did it that way earlier today. I used high temp sensor safe silicone because I have used it before and it's held in opperation.
I siliconed the safety glass back on after confirming the base was on and soldered right.
The neck shot is the previous one I did since I can't photo the neck while it's in a bucket to allow the safety glass caulk to dry.

[consoleguy67]

As far as the clover leaf assembly; has anyone had luck reproducing them on a 3d printer?