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  #736  
Old 10-22-2022, 08:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timmy View Post
Originals are in the chassis.
then get 2 fresh 2A ones and then they will never get hot again!

$.70 each is worth it!
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  #737  
Old 10-23-2022, 05:28 AM
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.70 is good yes but 7.50 shipping is not.
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  #738  
Old 10-23-2022, 06:37 AM
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HOLY CRAP ! 50 Freakin' Pages !

Yah, gotts love under a dollar items & 10X that for shipping......


.
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  #739  
Old 10-23-2022, 06:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Username1 View Post
.


HOLY CRAP ! 50 Freakin' Pages !

Yah, gotts love under a dollar items & 10X that for shipping......


.
That’s for sure thing is I have bigger diodes but the numbers are worn off is there anyway to tell what they are
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  #740  
Old 10-23-2022, 08:26 AM
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Pin 3 v1 64 volts add antenna 74 volts and if I up the gain the voltage drops highest voltage is with the gain at min I think this subber clock wise is low gain. I think I’m going to focus on v1 because voltage does go up on both v1 and v2 with antenna on so it is working but not enough. There are a few resistors a 22 ohm that measures 25 ohms don’t seem to high and the 18k measures 17.40k I’ll have to double check the 2.2k.

Last edited by timmy; 10-23-2022 at 08:51 AM.
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  #741  
Old 10-23-2022, 09:07 AM
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Good Morning!

I think you should try setting a goal of fixing this tv before this thread hits 60 pages!

Anyway.... Since you have that tuner subber, and it puts out TV type IF signal,
I think you should take the signal that comes out of it, and make a nice little
poker probe, with a coupling cap of course, and poke it around in the IF section
and see if you can narrow down where it works and where you loose it....
You did that video injection at Test Point 'B' a few pages back, so why not
take that IF signal from the tuner subber and poke it into each of the 3 IF
stages and see what you get...?
Don't forget to ground the ground part of the output cable, then just turn
the center wire into a capacitor coupled probe....

Aim for the G1's of each stage, put up some screen shots

1. no signal anywhere,
2. 1St, IF right at G1
3. 2Nd IF right at G1
4. 3Ed IF right at G1.

Naturally the signal will not be strong enough to produce a picture as you
get closer to 3ed IF, but the signal is what those circuits are tuned to
respond to, so I think it's your best bet to see at what point you might be
loosing your juice at...

Oh, and congratulations, your tuner subber is now also an IF section analyst
you can rename it later......


..
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Last edited by Username1; 10-23-2022 at 09:11 AM.
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  #742  
Old 10-23-2022, 09:36 AM
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I have the chassis on the bench and I’m going by voltages and pin 2 of v1 I get same result nothing further up other then pin 2 I get the same with the subber plugged in. I have to check the 2.2k resistor again.
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  #743  
Old 10-23-2022, 12:04 PM
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Does it appear that the k1 agc network would have anything to do with the IF functioning because I put together k1 and the only thing left that the IF would be lacking is the .4 source from the tuner because I have the chassis on the bench. Can’t find anything else obvious here.
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  #744  
Old 10-23-2022, 12:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Username1 View Post
Good Morning!

I think you should try setting a goal of fixing this tv before this thread hits 60 pages!

Anyway.... Since you have that tuner subber, and it puts out TV type IF signal,
I think you should take the signal that comes out of it, and make a nice little
poker probe, with a coupling cap of course, and poke it around in the IF section
and see if you can narrow down where it works and where you loose it....
You did that video injection at Test Point 'B' a few pages back, so why not
take that IF signal from the tuner subber and poke it into each of the 3 IF
stages and see what you get...?
Don't forget to ground the ground part of the output cable, then just turn
the center wire into a capacitor coupled probe....

Aim for the G1's of each stage, put up some screen shots

1. no signal anywhere,
2. 1St, IF right at G1
3. 2Nd IF right at G1
4. 3Ed IF right at G1.

Naturally the signal will not be strong enough to produce a picture as you
get closer to 3ed IF, but the signal is what those circuits are tuned to
respond to, so I think it's your best bet to see at what point you might be
loosing your juice at...

Oh, and congratulations, your tuner subber is now also an IF section analyst
you can rename it later......


..
in order to do that, you need to put the chassis in the " service position " as seen here.
http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0417191838b(1).jpg

OR pay way too much for a tube test socket like this
https://www.ebay.com/itm/36352391049...N2AYQ&LH_BIN=1
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  #745  
Old 10-23-2022, 12:29 PM
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I know I wish I had those sockets and there is no way I can stand the chassis up to get access to the underside I tried already the harnesses are just to short
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  #746  
Old 10-23-2022, 01:19 PM
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Can see an image. I can see words but video is just out of reach.

Last edited by timmy; 04-24-2023 at 04:16 PM.
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  #747  
Old 10-23-2022, 02:33 PM
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Well, I never had those fancy tube sockets.... I use to take 30 Gage wire & wrap it
around each tube pin I wanted to measure something on, then plug the tube back in
and I had access to whatever I needed on that tube....

But it would be best if you had a nice little bench you could put the chassis on, flipped
like that and make all your measurements....

Just build one, it's not like it's going to add significantly to the time it's taking to get
this tv working anyway..... And with all you spent on caps, precision resistors, tubes,
diodes, & thermisters, flyback transformers, you cudda just took out all that stuff and
put a flat screen in it already..... So just build a nice chassis table, put some movable
arms on it, mount a few lights, do it up nice!

Oh, and don't forget add one or two cupholders.....


.
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  #748  
Old 10-23-2022, 02:56 PM
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Lol
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  #749  
Old 10-23-2022, 03:01 PM
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The resistors I got I didn’t use the 2.7k because I got 2.7k 3watt but the voltage says they are rated for 135v so I’m not sure if it’s good to use them being there is 275v at one end. But I checked the 2.7k ones left in there and they show good however the others did not.
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  #750  
Old 10-23-2022, 04:28 PM
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Problem here is I only put 2 resistors in v1 after not seeing a positive result got discouraged so after making a new k1 with the new 680k I put the chassis back in and was surprised to see an image and words I can read didn’t have that befor so now I put the other 2 resistors in v2 and I’ll try it tomorrow I still didn’t change the 2.7k in both because I screwed up when I got the resistors the 2.7k 3watt are only rated for 135v not sure if I should use them I don’t want to use them to have to pull the chassis again because they couldn’t handle the voltage and went high or opened.
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