Silvertone 113/110.700

[old_coot88]

Originally Posted by mr_rye89

Grounded, should I get a good air arc if the horizontal is happy? I get a teensy air arc now…

You should get a healthy air arc of at least a quarter inch or more. Grounded?!Yikes!!

[Notimetolooz]

One of the things I keep around is an old defective compact fluorescent lamp. They are getting harder to find with the shift to LED bulbs.
The gas inside can be ionized, and the bulb lights, by the high frequency electromagnetic field from the H output tube or flyback.
In the past the trick was done using a neon bulb but the fluorescent is more spectacular.

[jr_tech]

“teensy” sounds a little small... do you get a larger air arc at the 1X2 plate cap?

jr

[mr_rye89]

Yeah the arc is really small at the plate cap, I also suspect the B+ is too low as well, Recap and new power supply resistors soon

[mr_rye89]

Got to back to playing with this this afternoon and I got a picture and sound. Tacked in some fresh(er) filter caps from the junk box, replaced the 25uf electrolytic that was across the horizontal centering pot (C50 in the schematic), and twiddled the knobs until I got a picture. Let's do the full recap now

[dieseljeep]

Originally Posted by Kevin Kuehn

Very nice find.

I located in Riders 5-1, as Air King models 12T1, 12T2, and 12C1, chassis 700. Your Silvertone version is way out in Riders 10-1, and they show the exact same schematic as the earlier Air King (drawing number 5958). Seems like the Sears chassis no. 110.700 even corresponds to the Air King chassis 700. It appears they used that same chassis with slight modifications with every CRT size under the sun, including rectangular ones. Oh and you probably know it's basically the same Air King chassis in Sams 121 folder 3.

Some Sears sets seemed to be regional. We never saw too many Sears sets built on the east coast or the west coast.
Most of the sets sold in the stores in the mid-west were built by Arvin or Warwick, with a few Stewart Warners thrown in!
There must've been some bad blood between Well Gardner and the Sears buyer, as I never saw a Sears set built by them.

[mr_rye89]

Wasn't Air King based out of Brooklyn NY?

Anyways I just ordered the bulk of the replacement capacitors for this set. Do the 24pf 3000v capacitors in the horizontal section need to be mica types? Multilayer ceramics exi$t but are on backorder.......

[mr_rye89]

The bulk of the recap is done, plus I swapped out that sand resistor. The horizontal isn't completely happy, The HOT is flaky, the horizontal centering pot doesn't do much til you reach one side. Something is clamping the vertical, it folds over if I crank the height up, it never fills the screen. I played with the EM focus ring, got it to where the deflection isn't cut off like in previous pictures......not sure where it goes exactly or how you set that up. I verified that my source content isn't 16:9 (sure looks like it lol)

[mr_rye89]

Update: got vertical, can stretch to fill phosphor if needed, wrong value resistor was to blame. I have too much horizontal with weird fold over and some retrace lines.

[Kevin Kuehn]

That looks to me like both sides of the picture are there but the horizontal output is not transitioning to the damper in a linear fashion. Have you tried another horizontal output and damper? What happens when you adjust the Horizontal Drive control?

[mr_rye89]

I tried swapping the HOT + damper and it's the same. Horizontal Drive doesn't do anything.

[mr_rye89]

Horizontal width doesn't do anything either FYI. those 24pf 3000v capacitors in series going between the fly and pin 5 on the HOT are original and one of the few things in the horizontal circuit I haven't checked......

Edit: Schematic calls for a 6BQ6 HOT, I have a 6DQ6 in there. Could this cause my problem?

[Kevin Kuehn]

Originally Posted by mr_rye89

Horizontal width doesn't do anything either FYI. those 24pf 3000v capacitors in series going between the fly and pin 5 on the HOT are original and one of the few things in the horizontal circuit I haven't checked......

Edit: Schematic calls for a 6BQ6 HOT, I have a 6DQ6 in there. Could this cause my problem?

6DQ6 is listed as a good sub, but never hurts to try what they originally used.

[mr_rye89]

I swapped in a good Sylvania 6bq6gtb and a tung sol 6w4 damper and I have a better picture, the drive line isn’t as bad but pic is wavy and stretched to the left of it. Horizontal drive, width, and linearity do nothing still. I may take a break from the sweep and see why sound doesn’t work. It quit sometime during recap

[mr_rye89]

Well we have a sudden shrink of picture for some reason. Horizontal lock is shaky. I checked for HV arcing, none of that. Changes the 1 Meg resistor on the hv anode, swapped in some other horizontal oscillator and sync separator tubes in for good measure. This guy is getting ready to get mothballed again