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#1
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Ran it for about 15 min, no smoke, no fire, no arcing, so far so good!
__________________
=^-^= Yasashii yoru ni hitori utau uta. Asu wa kimi to utaou. Yume no tsubasa ni notte. いとおしい人のために |
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#2
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Fingers crossed
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#3
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I Did order a NOS RAM X032, just in case, the one i have failed, not quite the right one, but I cant find a X077, this can be made to work in a bind.
http://www.earlytelevision.org/pdf/r..._reference.pdf
__________________
=^-^= Yasashii yoru ni hitori utau uta. Asu wa kimi to utaou. Yume no tsubasa ni notte. いとおしい人のために |
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#4
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Ran OK for about an hour last night, no major issues seen, the FBT is getting a bit warm, i guess that they are driving it hard, not to mention there are 5 tubes around it, gonna try some small heat sinks on it and a bigger fan.
__________________
=^-^= Yasashii yoru ni hitori utau uta. Asu wa kimi to utaou. Yume no tsubasa ni notte. いとおしい人のために |
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#5
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http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0527252003.jpg
So, perhaps this and a big fan will help it keep cooler? a bit perhaps. :P
__________________
=^-^= Yasashii yoru ni hitori utau uta. Asu wa kimi to utaou. Yume no tsubasa ni notte. いとおしい人のために |
| Audiokarma |
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#6
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Why put a fan that was never intended for some things I was told with the old sets that they are supposed to get hot to work right. A fan to cool a hot flyback I don’t think that would be much help since the heat comes from within the depths of the flyback. I guess a type of shield to keep tube heat away would help.
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#7
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Quote:
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Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4 |
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#8
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Quote:
__________________
=^-^= Yasashii yoru ni hitori utau uta. Asu wa kimi to utaou. Yume no tsubasa ni notte. いとおしい人のために |
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#9
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I tend to think that this was a foolish design from Magnavox in the first place, not well thought out for longevity, 2 horizontal output tubes, 2 HV rect tubes, 3 candohm resistors and a FBT crammed into one metal box, it's asking for things to fail, I'm pretty sure that the flyback transformer that was in there when I got it was not the original, it's been replaced before, and the one I took out looked very toasty, and replacements are very hard to find, so like my other sets, I will take steps to keep it as cool as I can.
__________________
=^-^= Yasashii yoru ni hitori utau uta. Asu wa kimi to utaou. Yume no tsubasa ni notte. いとおしい人のために |
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#10
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If it works on one tube, the cathode current isn't beyond specs for the tube, and it doesn't somehow run the flyback hotter it's probably fine. It can't hurt to try...If one tube has a sudden failure the same condition would exist so the designers should have at least considered the probability of it happening.
__________________
Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4 |
| Audiokarma |
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#11
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Quote:
It does say to use one tube for the AP4 and 2 for the EP4, and I did get it with FP4 but am putting in a LP4 that has an angle closer to the AP4, so I guess the dual is not needed, but if it means the FBT will be cooler... who knows.
__________________
=^-^= Yasashii yoru ni hitori utau uta. Asu wa kimi to utaou. Yume no tsubasa ni notte. いとおしい人のために |
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#12
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I'm starting to thing that this silly thing just runs the FBT hot, and they knew it when they made the set.
Like see the pic of the old one. http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0226251827b.jpg they had it bolted to that copper plate, that was not for ground, or mounting, it was to cool the damn thing off! and even so, it still got toasted! I'm gonna put a big Vantec 80mm Tornado Case Fan on that thing!
__________________
=^-^= Yasashii yoru ni hitori utau uta. Asu wa kimi to utaou. Yume no tsubasa ni notte. いとおしい人のために |
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#13
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I did try it on one tube over the weekend, it SORT of worked, but did not like it, it was unstable, would lose h-sync when power cycled, much more stable with both tubes, comes up with lock each time.
Still don't like how hot the FBT gets, but at this point, there is not much more I can do about it, as it seems to be the way it was made, I will attempt to put some heat sink paste between the FBT and the large copper plate they have there for cooling which I hope will pull the heat away a bit better, there was nothing originally, this plus a massive case fan will hopefully keep it from frying. The focus coil also gets rather warm, this I'm guessing is normal as they had a 5w 560 ohm resistor and 5w wire wound 2.2k pot in the circuit, both of which fried when the pot failed and shorted to gnd, I could not find a suitable 2.2k pot in the right power range, so I got a 5k 5w wire wound, this should not be a problem as only one end and the center is used, and the 16LP4 uses a bit less focus current than the 16FP4 that was in there, so the extra range won't hurt, 146ma vs 110ma, I still have to clean the rust off the focus coil and fix the disintegrated covers on the yoke. Overall, I'm impressed with the level of detail I'm seeing in the video on the 8YP4, even though it's not a good match to the set, and it's smearing, it means the IF is pretty good, and so is the video sections.
__________________
=^-^= Yasashii yoru ni hitori utau uta. Asu wa kimi to utaou. Yume no tsubasa ni notte. いとおしい人のために |
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#14
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When it's possible, I've been trying to install a 120V silent cooling fan in all of my TV restorations. Not specifically to solve a rogue heat problem but just as an attempt to extend longevity of those unobtanium parts that will fail someday. Heat is the #1 enemy of these old electronics. Case in point, my Admiral Bakelite R2D2 floor model has a space under the chassis where I mounted a 4" silent cooling fan that's tied into the on/off switch. I can feel the lukewarm air coming up out of the perforated metal back of the TV. Maybe it won't make any difference but I feel better about reliability with it there.
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#15
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Is not a bad idea. Will not harm and useful lifetime will be indeed higher.
__________________
So many projects, so little time... |
| Audiokarma |
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