Motorola TS-14 Lives again!

[Zenith26kc20]

Recapped, repaired and put back together! This set has all it's parts (back, bottom and knobs). I am leaving the back and bottom off to use it as thermal design must have been an after thought. The most important things here were getting vertical and horizontal stable from turn on to running temperature as the two controls are in the back!
Couldn't resist the WLOX weather. It's 95 miles OTA as the crow flies!
And the black is the aquadag flaking. I cleaned it before the pictures but it's persistant on flaking more. I don't want to remove all of it because there is no doorknob cap in this set.

[compucat]

Good work. I have a Motorola 9VT1 electrostatic set in working condition. I plan to refinish the cabinet this summer. These Motorolas are good performing sets and generally quite reliable when restored properly. Stability of vertical hold during warmup is an issue on mine which is aggravating since the controls are in the back.

[bandersen]

Nice job The vertical on my Motorolas is a little finicky too.

You can recoat the CRT with Aerodag or SlipPlate.

[DaveWM]

I have a 10BP4 with flakey aquadag (gotta be a joke in there somewhere), what do you use to recoat with.

My Motorola had a lot of interaction on just about everything, vert size/lin/brighness all had effects on the picture. IIRC if I reduced brightness in an attempt to get retrace and gray scale right I would lose vert height.

Def not one to mess with once its right.

[AUdubon5425]

Great DX. I can't get 'LOX anymore - probably because I don't have a proper UHF antenna.

[Phil Nelson]

Originally Posted by DaveWM

flakey aquadag (gotta be a joke in there somewhere), what do you use to recoat with.

Search for "Aerodag G" in the spray can.

Phil

[DaveWM]

got it thx

[compucat]

Originally Posted by DaveWM

My Motorola had a lot of interaction on just about everything, vert size/lin/brighness all had effects on the picture. IIRC if I reduced brightness in an attempt to get retrace and gray scale right I would lose vert height.

Def not one to mess with once its right.

It must be the nature of the beast. When I restored mine, I replaced all capacitors and resistors in the sweep circuits to try to build in some reliability. While the set is very dependable, the hold controls are sensitive and there is a lot of interaction between the setup controls. I figure it must just be the nature of the early and most likely economical design. After all, these were many people's first experience with television. They would not know it wasn't supposed to be like that. I still like the Motorolas and would not hesitate to restore another.

[Zenith26kc20]

I did finally get the vertical to stabilize from cold to hot. I used 1600 volt orange drops from RadioDaze for the .0047 mfd caps in the vertical. The three are critical. I also left their leads a bit longer to prevent the heat from the tube socket pins from going up into the capacitors. The horizontal has always been good. I ran it untouched three hours last night without a problem! Like I mentioned earlier, no back or bottom on it. That never stabilized it before though....
Now, I want to try this with my TS-4. It wakes up miles off frequency and requires touching up at least three times before the vertical and horizontal stabilize.