Help needed with old CRT rejuvenator

[Arkwright]

Hello everyone, I am Stephen, a new member. I have a 1970’s Pro-Quip CRT rejuvenator here that was given to me. Unfortunately, it was badly repaired at some point, and I’m hoping to find a schematic diagram for the circuit. It is apparently a South African built machine, and I can’t find any information on it. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[kf4rca]

Did you get the cable that comes with it? Really not a lot to it. I would draw it out on a sheet of paper. You should be able to identify the power supply. It would be important to get the cable pin out. Not sure how SA tubes are made but I think they would be pretty much the same. Just because the repair doesn't look pretty, don't think it didn't work.

[Alex KL-1]

Welcome to VK!

Too bad, if someone used wrong values os parts, or have a doubt, the schematic will be helpful... but, being a relatively simple device, a research about the CRT testers and aplying the rules here will be a difficult but possible option, if is impossible to locate the schematic.

[kf4rca]

Whoa! It has a 7 pin connector for the cable. OK, two pins will be used for the filament and should go to the power transformer.( Plug it in and you should get 6VAC.
Three pins go to the RGB selector switch. That leaves 2 pins left. Most likely Kathode and G1. So you have a 50/50 chance of connecting it right.
Do you have a 7 pin test CRT? I remember the early computer monitors (CGA) having a 7 pin base. You will need a socket to make a cable.
Its probably an OEM tester- used in the manufacturing environment and was only designed to test 1 type of CRT. Good luck.
It might be something like a B&K 400 tester which was very popular at the time.

[Arkwright]

Originally Posted by kf4rca

Did you get the cable that comes with it? Really not a lot to it. I would draw it out on a sheet of paper. You should be able to identify the power supply. It would be important to get the cable pin out. Not sure how SA tubes are made but I think they would be pretty much the same. Just because the repair doesn't look pretty, don't think it didn't work.

Thank you for your response. I haven’t received it yet, as the gentleman who gave the machine to me is still searching his workshop. This machine hasn’t been used in three years.

Originally Posted by Alex KL-1

Welcome to VK!

Too bad, if someone used wrong values os parts, or have a doubt, the schematic will be helpful... but, being a relatively simple device, a research about the CRT testers and aplying the rules here will be a difficult but possible option, if is impossible to locate the schematic.

Thank you for your response. I’m hoping to find the schematic, especially as one of the capacitors is hanging loose and I can’t figure out where it should be soldered due to the work done on the board.

Originally Posted by kf4rca

Whoa! It has a 7 pin connector for the cable. OK, two pins will be used for the filament and should go to the power transformer.( Plug it in and you should get 6VAC.
Three pins go to the RGB selector switch. That leaves 2 pins left. Most likely Kathode and G1. So you have a 50/50 chance of connecting it right.
Do you have a 7 pin test CRT? I remember the early computer monitors (CGA) having a 7 pin base. You will need a socket to make a cable.
Its probably an OEM tester- used in the manufacturing environment and was only designed to test 1 type of CRT. Good luck.
It might be something like a B&K 400 tester which was very popular at the time.

I’ll certainly look at the wiring on the inside of the machine. According to the technician, this machine was used on many TVs before it broke, and it always did the job well. I hope to find the schematic before plugging it in, as one capacitor is hanging loose, and I can’t figure out where it is supposed to be soldered due to the work done on the board. Unfortunately, I don’t have a test CRT, but I have a TV which needs rejuvenation.

[kf4rca]

Probably only one cap in there. The + should go to the + end of the rectifier. The - end should go to ground.
ProQuip still has a presence in Australia.
Looked around on ebay and there are not many 7 pin sockets.

[Arkwright]

The blue cap is definitely part of the circuit, but the previous person who worked on the device added things and damaged the traces. The yellow cap which is loose could have been added on. If I can find the schematic, then I can fix it correctly. As for the cable, I believe it has multiple adaptors for different tubes attached to it.