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  #226  
Old 07-20-2015, 02:37 PM
DaveWM DaveWM is offline
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there are two test to be done

value and leakage.

the value generally uses an AC signal, 55vac on mine IIRC

you select a range and then null an eye tube (largest opening in the display)

the leakage test is done by selecting a voltage and turning a knob to test.
in my case the eye tube should open fully, if it does not then there is leakage.
on larger value caps it close momentary while the cap charges then opens, small values its so quick not really noticeable.

Electros have there own setting and have a power factor test as well.
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  #227  
Old 07-20-2015, 02:39 PM
DaveWM DaveWM is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SwizzyMan View Post
Open as in completely dead. On my tester when the eye closes and stays closed that indicates excessive leakage. The eye stayed closed at 400v for the old one. The new one tests no leakage at 400v with the eye staying open.
ok so its leaky/shorted, def a prob will foul up the syn as its a cap that couples the syc separated grid.
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  #228  
Old 07-20-2015, 02:43 PM
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Dont know if mine does value. But I think it does because at any value except the one the cap specifies the eye closes. So if it is a .01 cap and I turn the dial to .05 or something else the eye stays closed. If I turn the dial back to the correct value the eye opens and then I can run the leakage tests. This is all stated in my manual for the 950B.
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  #229  
Old 07-20-2015, 03:00 PM
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Zenith26kc20 Zenith26kc20 is offline
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I use a Weller Soldering station. Adjustable heat. It unsolders chassis shields without a problem. If the piece is too large for it I use an old electric gutter iron.
I don't remember the CTC9 having a shield on the bottom. It does have one on the top.
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  #230  
Old 07-20-2015, 03:41 PM
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Would it be safe to put cans back on the restuffed filter caps? And should I put the chassis back in the cabinet and see if the new IF cap helps? Or should I tackle some more things with it first?
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  #231  
Old 07-20-2015, 04:16 PM
MRX37 MRX37 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SwizzyMan View Post
Would it be safe to put cans back on the restuffed filter caps? And should I put the chassis back in the cabinet and see if the new IF cap helps? Or should I tackle some more things with it first?
Everything you ever wanted to know about restuffing filter caps:
http://www.videokarma.org/showthread.php?t=246148
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  #232  
Old 07-20-2015, 04:53 PM
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Phil Nelson Phil Nelson is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SwizzyMan View Post
Would it be safe to put cans back on the restuffed filter caps?
There's no downside to waiting a while, until you have confirmed that all of the TV's operating voltages are normal and it is stable in operation.

Phil Nelson
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  #233  
Old 07-20-2015, 06:57 PM
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Got it back in. Signal is clear and the picture is clearer now but the horizontal hold is still a pain
It seems I can turn the horiz hold knob about a half turn to right before losing sync but when I turn it to the left I only get about a quarter turn before I lose sync. This horizontal hold issue has been very frustrating but I can live with it until I start using it as a daily watcher. Whats to do next? Should I try and fix the horiz hold once and for all or should I continue on to the picture quality and color adjustments?
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Last edited by SwizzyMan; 07-20-2015 at 07:03 PM.
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  #234  
Old 07-20-2015, 08:07 PM
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SwizzyMan SwizzyMan is offline
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Okay, here is my attempt at vertical linearity I think I did OK
Cant get rid of that horizontal distortion. That only really happens on the pattern generator sometimes it is perfectly straight and sometimes it is bent. Note that the line at the top of the screen is obstructed by the mask you can see it better if you are up close.
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File Type: jpg DSC_0534.jpg (79.6 KB, 24 views)
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  #235  
Old 07-20-2015, 11:48 PM
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It looks alot better.. Got a full raster now.. I would still work on the Horz issue before going onto color etc...

You can post pics from an external pic hosting site and post them on this forum.. The forum does have an "Insert Image" function in the advanced posting, and then copy/paste image link into it, and it will post html code to your image..
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  #236  
Old 07-21-2015, 12:51 AM
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Photobucket gives you the IMG code to paste into your posts so the picture will appear in them...It's even easier that way.
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  #237  
Old 07-21-2015, 03:23 PM
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SwizzyMan SwizzyMan is offline
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Ok will do that next time. Now my question is what is causing the poor horizontal lock and how can I fix it? I have recapped the horizontal board and have put a new tube in and replaced an open IF cap and still I have very poor hold and the picture is bending near the top. ie. the vertical bars on the crosshatch pattern are distorted and bent near the top of the screen. How can I fix this? This has been frustrating me very much and I would like to fix this irritating horizontal hold once and for all! Any input is greatly appreciated!!
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  #238  
Old 07-21-2015, 04:09 PM
DaveWM DaveWM is offline
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how does it look on reg programming.
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  #239  
Old 07-21-2015, 04:12 PM
DaveWM DaveWM is offline
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try not directly connecting the ant lead, so the signal is weaker, see if you get a snowy pic that lacks the bending and other distortion.
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  #240  
Old 07-21-2015, 05:00 PM
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SwizzyMan SwizzyMan is offline
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Ran a signal from my BT modulator and received a signal from my rabbit ears hooked up to the set and the picture is kinda snowy but the bending at the top of the screen is a lot less noticeable it is still there though but it is moving very fast as in it swirls but this is not too noticeable the horiz hold still is very touchy and occasionally goes off sync. Funny thing is when it loses sync sometimes all I have to do is give the cabinet a firm hit with my hand and it whips back into place. But regular programming does not cause as many problems as the NTSC pattern generator does to the horiz hold.
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